~ Prospecting For Gold

Chances are the ring on your finger is marked 18K, 14K, or 10K, with the K standing for karat, the system used to describe the percentage of pure gold an item contains. The higher the karat number, the higher the percentage of gold in your gold jewelry.

- 24K gold is pure gold.

- 18K gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts of one or more additional metals, making it 75% gold.

- 14K gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts of one or more additional metals, making it 58.3% gold.

- 12K gold contains 12 parts gold and 12 parts of one or more additional metals, making it 50% gold.

- 10K gold contains 10 parts gold and 14 parts of one or more additional metals, making it 41.7% gold. 10K gold is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in the United States.

Karats and Color

Pure 24-karat gold will always be yellow in color. Copper and silver can be added to gold to create an alloy with the same yellow color. However, the addition of other metals can change the color of the gold. For example, gold combined with copper will produce a pink or rose tint. White gold is the result of adding copper, nickel, and zinc to gold. Jewelers are experimenting with other combinations to produce alloys with a variety of tints such as brown and purple.

Gold Pricing

Gold pricing is based on a number of factors, including karatage, gram weight, design and craftsmanship. The karatage and gram weight tell you how much gold is in a piece, but don’t rely on these alone to determine price. Remember, a price based solely on gram weight does not reflect the work that has gone into the piece.

Other important factors to consider are the jewelry’s construction and design. The techniques of construction can make a piece more durable and flexible for added comfort. A well-made piece in a classic design will give you years of wear and enjoyment and, if cared for properly, will last a lifetime. Unique design, intricate details, gemstones or a special clasp may add to the price.

Gold jewelry is mainly produced by machine. Any additional hand finishing or textural interest raises the cost. Similar looking pieces may have vastly different price tags. This is because different pieces may have specific characteristics that make them unique. So look carefully to notice any differences and similarities. Often, it’s these small details that give you pleasure through the years that you enjoy a piece of jewelry, and ensure that your children will also enjoy it.

European Markings

European gold jewelry indicates the gold purity as a 3 digit number.
24 Karat Gold Jewelry is marked 999 to show a 99.9% gold purity.
22 Karat Gold Jewelry is marked 917 to show a 91.7% gold purity.
18 Karat Gold Jewelry is marked 750 to indicate 75% gold purity.
14 Karat Gold Jewelry is marked 585 for 58.5% gold purity.
12 Karat Gold Jewelry is marked 417 for 41.7% gold purity.

Why Are Other Metals Mixed With Gold?

You’ll find examples of pure gold jewelry, but pure gold is soft and isn’t practical for daily wear. Other metals are mixed with it to make it more durable (and to lower its cost).

Adding other metals to the mix also allows metallurgists to change the color of gold. Palladium or nickel can be added to create white gold. Adding copper produces a rose or pink tint, while silver gives gold a greenish cast.

When metals are added to the gold the result is an alloy, a blended mixture of the metals that you can think of as a very expensive cake batter. Solid gold is a term that can be used to describe an item that’s at least 10K (in the US) gold all the way through. Even though it’s a gold alloy–18K, 14K, or anything down to 10K–it can be called solid gold.

So What Should You Buy?

Solid gold is durable, so it is a better choice for jewelry you’ll wear regularly. If you have allergies to nickel or other metals, choose items that have high gold content, such as 18K or 22K gold jewelry.

Gold filled or plated jewelry is suitable for jewelry that you wear occasionally. Everyday use would eventually diminish the gold layer, exposing the metal below, which might stain your skin or cause an allergic reaction.

For pieces that will last a lifetime and beyond, buy the highest quality gold your budget allows.

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